- "A circularly-polarized 'omnidirectional' antenna" - link
- "6 meter cycloid dipole for circular polarization" - link
- A page that I wrote describing the Cycloid Dipoles at the WA7X site - link
While this antenna is described as being "omnidirectional", that is not true in the proper sense of the word. Its circularity and most of its radiated power is directed toward-ish the horizon (at some elevation angle) in all directions while relatively little energy is radiated upwards - and what is being radiated upwards not likely to be very circular. As with any antenna, the proximity of the coaxial cable, metallic support and feedline will, no doubt, skew the pattern in some way - and this antenna is no exception - but this is unavoidable.
While the dimensions of the "antenna" part of the Cycloid dipole are spelled out in the linked article(s), above, the matching of these antennas to 50 ohms is not - with only the suggestion that a "1/2 wave matching network" be used. While this matching network is very simple, it may be unfamiliar to some, so what follows is a paraphrased response to an email on this very question.
Matching the cycloid dipole:
While I carefully noted the dimensions of the dipole when I designed them, we never precisely measured the various dimensions of the matching networks of the 2 and 6 meter Cycloid Dipoles, but they are simply stub-tuned 1/2 wave sections - only the dimensions of the actually "antenna" portion are on the web page.
In retrospect, a full 1/2 wave section was probably an overkill as a 1/4 wave may have sufficed - but that "extra" bit of open-wire balanced transmission line (e.g. the portion of the pipe between the coax tap and the "cycloid" part of the antenna) worked out well to provide physical support, rigidity, and counterbalance, would not cause any significant loss, and it all but guaranteed that we would be able to find a good match.
The details of the matching network and its tuning are thus:
- We used about 1/2 wave length of copper tubing protruding from the "back" of the antenna, used also to support the main antenna body. As can be seen from the pictures, it was folded upon itself, zig-zagging to reduce its overall size. This extra weight can help to counter-balance the weight of the antenna itself.
- There is a 1/2 wavelength coaxial balun to go from 50 ohms unbalanced to 200 ohms
balanced using small 50 ohm coaxial cable.. This type of balun
well-described in literature and one of several online calculators may be found
e/balun.htm . For the 2 meter antenna we actually used some small, 50 ohm hardline (the RG-58-sized equivalent of "UT-141" PTFE coax) that was obtained on the surplus market, but RG-8x or even RG-58 would have been fine.
- When the antenna was tuned up, it was mounted on a support placing it several feet/meters above the ground, an MFJ analyzer was connected to the far end of the coax (10-15 feet away) to minimize the effect of having a person too close to the antenna and affecting tuning. For initial tuning, it should be mounted to the same type of mast as that which will be used for permanent mounting. For the antennas at the WA7X beacon, black ABS water pipe has proven to be durable. In the case of the 2 meter antenna, it was mounted using some PVC piping that seems to be holding up despite being out in the weather for well over a decade.
- We then prepared two nonmetallic sticks - 5-6 feet long (1x1, wood, dowels, bamboo, etc.) and one of these had a piece of heavy wire to use as a shorting stub and the other had the balanced (200 ohm) side of the coaxial balun, also connected to 2 wires. The wires/balun were simply taped to the end of the stick to allow contact to be made.
- Make sure that the copper pipe from which the matching section is made is clean and free of oxide - usually by sanding with fine-grit paper - to allow a reliable connection while finding a match and for ease of soldering.
- At the position farthest from the antenna, the sliding shorting bar was placed while sliding connection to the balun was placed near it, on the "antenna" side of the shorting bar.
- With the sticks, the two were slid around to achieve 50 ohm match. While the two sliding portions are held in place, another person marks their position with a permanent marking pen on the antenna. It is easier to move the connection on the balun back and forth while watching the VSWR while slowly moving the shorting bar back and forth, looking carefully for a match.
- Once a preliminary match is found, the sliding shorting bar is replaced with a piece of heavy wire (#10-#14 AWG) that is wrapped around the pipe at the marked position. The other sliding bar (on the balun) is then re-checked for a good match, the shorting bar's position tweaked as necessary.
- Once the position of the shorting bar has been established, the wire on the balun section is wrapped around the pipe. This allows the wooden stick to be removed. The positions of the two connections are then tweaked for best match.
- The two connections are soldered in place, and the match re-checked. If it is OK, connections are sealed and the match re-checked and adjusted as necessary.
- In both Figure 1 and Figure 2 one can see small pieces of acetal (e.g. Delrin tm) plastic on the matching network - this material being chosen for its low RF loss characteristics and its durability to UV exposure. Note that PTFE (a.k.a. Teflon tm) would have also worked well. Some of the pieces (those at the far left edge of the matching section) are used for mechanical support. but the others are then for fine tuning: The position of these pieces of dielectric slightly alter the tuning. After the antenna was fully assembled, these were moved back and forth for the best match and secured in place with blobs of RTV (e.g. Silicone tm) sealant on both sides.
As can be seen in Figure 2 on both the 2 and 6 meter antennas, the attachment point of the balun is fairly close to the shorting bar. The proximity of the coaxial cable balun to the match will affect tuning a bit, so it must be fixed into place before the final tuning is done.
The entire procedure is a lot easier if there are 2 or 3 people participating as it is pretty tricky for a single to hold two wires on sticks in place. If there is only one person, the shorting bar wire would be wrapped around the (clean!) pipe at a position correlating to about 0.4 wavelength on the pipe and the balun portion slid back and forth to see a "dip" in the VSWR, iteratively adjusting the shorting bar back and forth experimentally while sliding the connection from the balun to get the best match.
As I noted, it is possible that a 1/4 wave section would have been fine, but we just used the 1/2 section as there would be no doubt that it could be matched - and we wanted to minimize the hassle related soldering/unsoldering things as much as possible. Importantly, this type of match - using the large pipes and "open wire" line - is very low loss compared to many other matching networks (e.g. those using small wound coils and discrete capacitors) and it contributes to the mechanical strength of the antenna itself.
This page stolen from ka7oei.blogspot.com